Well pump problem

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by LittleJohnny35, May 29, 2011.

  1. LittleJohnny35

    LittleJohnny35 New Member

    Im writing to see if I can get some feedback on a problem im having. A little while back I noticed every few weeks I had a bit of air in my water lines. After the cold season ended and my geo was not running as often I noticed the problem more frequently. At first I thought maybe my check valve on my pump was failing and that the problem was happening because the well pump was off and the water was draining back down. Recently I was home washing my lawn tractor and I ran out of water. I went to check my pump and noted it read zero on the pressure gauge. While I was looking at gauge the value started to rise as the pump obviously started to run again. A week later the same thing happen when my wife was taking a bath but this time I was able to re-create it. Once the pump came back on I left the water running and watched the pressure switch turn on once it hit cut-in. After around the 5 time of working correctly I watched as the needle gauge passed by the 30psi cut-in and the pressure switch clicking but no pump was coming on or at least no pressure building back up. I assumed at this point that the contacts may be bad on the pressure switch as the switch itself looked a bit corroded. Ordered and installed the identical switch and thought my problems were solved. Today the same thing happened. My wife was taking a bath and the pump failed to turn on after the switch passed cut-in. I went down stairs an flicked the breaker off and on and the pump went back on. Today I located and ordered a replaced control box for my Jacuzzi 3/4hp sandhandler well pump. Im wondering if anyone else had a similiar problem and whether or not they had the same fault. This pump was installed about seven months ago so the pump and control unit are fairly new. I could have gotten the guy who installed the pump to come out but I figured the new control box was only 70 bucks so i should try it myself. My only concern is that it may be the pump itself. Any thoughts.....hopefully im on the right track and its the control box as I really dont want to have to get the guy to come back and pull the pump. As a note....the problem is definitely not my water level as I can run the pump for hours in a row without faults. its only when it is off and has to restart. Im hoping some of the professionals may have seen this before and could let me know what they think.
     
  2. LittleJohnny35

    LittleJohnny35 New Member

    I have one more question regarding this

    I currently have the capacitor start induction run box....could I switch to the capacitor start capacitor un controller. My understanding is the capacior run one will use less power?
     
  3. waterpirate

    waterpirate Well-Known Member Industry Professional Forum Leader

    There is a lot of stuff going on in this querry, but I will try to sort them out. With a pump this young you should not be experiancing these sort of issues, unless something was amiss from the beginning.
    I am not there so take this advice for what itis worth, free over the net. A 3/4 hp pump with an external control box in this day and age is a dinosaur. It is an un-neccesary piece of the puzzle. The air in the lines is also a clue, along with burnt or damaged contacts, hesitation or failure to start would point me to an examination of the storage capacity, i.e. the tank. Is it working properly? Is it failed or comprimised.
    As to the statement about electric consumption and efficiency, it is bunk. If a given motor needs a start and run capcitor to work, the motor will not care whether they are internal or external. The external ones just provide an additional failure point.
    Eric
     
  4. LittleJohnny35

    LittleJohnny35 New Member

    Thanks for the reply Eric

    Yesterday i decided to pull the pump myself as the new controller did nothing and the pump was still failing to start once out of aprox every five times. Made a tool...pulled the pump and went to the dealer that the pump guy used and they tested it on the spot. They were able to replicate the fault that I was seeing. They were not sure as to why it was failing as both windings measured ok but from my own job experience things often look good without power applied but under load conditions may change. They gave ne a new pump and I installed it in the evening. The original pump must have been defective from the get go as the current draw has changed from this new pump to the defective one. The defective pump I pulled out was drawing 2kw of power as per my Ted5000 from the day it was first installed. this information I documented in a previous post when I went from my 1.5 hp to 3/4 hp. The new pump I put in yesterday draws 1.5kw of power. I also ordered another control box that I should get today that has a capacitor start and capacitor run vs the capacitor start induction run I have now. My understanding is this will allow the motor to use even less power and run more efficiently. It appears that all pumps under 1.5 hp are sold with cap start induction run boxs but all have special order cap start cap run boxes available. For the average home owner this is no big deal as the pumps dont run long enough for them to see a savings. For someone like me whos pump can run 24 hrs a day during peak heating this is huge. I will post the new power draw from my pump with the new controller once installed. i have also attached some info regarding this as it appears from speaking with many pump stores that most arent even aware these boxes exist and for geo people like us with open loop its huge. As for the 3 wire external control box pumps being dinosaurs I would have to respectfully disagree as I think its a matter of preference but im no expert so dont take that the wrong way. I the reason I wanted to share this info is for anyone out there like me who is looking to cut there energy use and become more efficient as open loop users. I will keep you posted on the new numbers. Thanks again for the help

    http://www.franklin-electric.com/media/documents/vol20no4.pdf

    http://www.wwpp.com/products/myers-pumps/penteknews.pdf
     
  5. waterpirate

    waterpirate Well-Known Member Industry Professional Forum Leader

    I sure do love a happy ending. Defective from the factory..... one of the last stops on the diagnosis tree, but there just the same.
    Eric
     
  6. LittleJohnny35

    LittleJohnny35 New Member

    Update to this pump story.

    Today I received and installed my cap start cap run box for my 3/4 hp unit. The power consumption has now dropped from 1.5kw for pump to 1.2 kw. My geo now uses 2.2kw an hour when running on stage one. When I first bought my house last year I was using 4.5kw per hour in stage 1 with the 1.5hp that was originally installed. My pump power usage went from 3.5kw/hr to 1.2kw/hr which equates to huge savings. The 300 watts per hour savings from the control panel alone will equal about a dollar a day savings in the winter time when the pump runs 24/7. The total savings from when I moved in until now with changes is about $8 a day during winter heating when my pump runs for 24hrs which it does during most of the heating season. This is almost $250 per month if not more. Very happy with the end result.
     

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