Unit runs often and for short periods of time.- Long winded- sorry

Thanks Geome. I guess the part that baffles me is why the unit is kicking on 10 mins after the last time it ran, all day long, even though the actual temp on the themostat has not left the set temp. If I don't touch the thermostat all day long, it will run 57 times a day and will never leave 17 degrees, and I truly don't think that it needs to.
Yesterday, it was -21 degrees celcius outside and I kept the house( 1900 sqft up and 1900 sqft basement) 2 degrees above the t-stat set point by just running my 62% efficient fireplace and 2 ceiling fans...
I can't find info anywhere on whether or not this is a single or 2 stage compressor. I'm going to try calling the manufacturer tomorrow.
I was debating trying to get my hands on a t-stat that allows for a degree or two differential and see if that makes a difference. What do you think?

 

I had a very familiar experience with my Honeywell stat. I felt it was cycling to often no matter the cph. I came to the conclusion that stat was faulty or it has a very tight temperature swing.

I recently installed a stat from Bayweb, It seems to have about a 1° F temperature swing. Now my unit cycles less often with longer run times. It has many other features that I think most of us like to see. BAYweb

 

We really like Climatouch stats.

It lets you control all of the functions of the Heat Pump

 

I wouldn't give up on your thermostat until we find out if you can get to setup #5 for 1st stage heating. Actually, the more I look at the manual, the more I think the 3 CPH setting in option #9 is for both cooling and heating. After verifying that the following change is ok with your installer, you can try adjusting #9 (if you don't have #5) to 1CPH to see if that makes a difference. If it helps, but you are uncomfortable with the temperature swing, try 2 CPH. Don't be surprised if the displayed thermostat temperature still reads at your set point even if you are noticeably colder between cycles (see below.)

"...even though the actual temp on the themostat has not left the set temp."
Don't ask me why, but for some reason Honeywell believes it is better to just leave the indicated temperature (if it is close to your set point) displaying the set point temperature instead of the actual temperature. There are no options to change the display to actual as far as I know.

I believe the Climatouch was the one I was thinking of (thanks Dewayne), but I can't confirm since I can't access their web site now (not the first time I have had this problem with their site.) If you buy one, you should confirm it will work with your system before purchasing it.

 

Honeywell stats are set up to maintain set point. If you set it at 70 deg the stat keeps 70. Not 69.8 or 70.2. Also, if the house temp is 69.5 - 70.4 the stat displays 70. So the set point and house temp may appear to be the same, but may be far enough apart that the stat still calls for heating, or cooling.

We set up our stats for 2 CPH for 1st stage, 2 CPH for 2nd stage, 9 CPH for Aux heat and 9 CPH for emergency. We also set the "Heat Temperature Control" setting to "Less Aggressive".

Bergy

 

Opening the breaker to the auxiliary heater may not work. On my Geostar (Waterfurnce) unit, without auxiliary heat the blower is powered through the main unit breaker. However, when you add auxiliary heat, instructions say to remove a jumper which provides power to the blower through the main feed and switch it so that the blower is powered off the auxiliary heat input. This makes sense. If your compressor or other component dies and trips the main breaker feed, you'll still have emergency auxiliary heat. Otherwise, no main power feed, no emergency feed.

One way to electrically lock out the auxiliary heat would be to use a double pole, 30 A rated switch (about $11 at Lowes + handy box, cover, and wiring). Internal to the aux heat box, reroute both hot leads through this switch. This would lock out the elements while leaving power to the blower.

Of course, disadvantage is that, with the switch off, you lose emergency heat backup. This modification is not recommended for those not thoroughly knowledgeable about wiring and willing and able to remember to do down to the basement to turn it back on in subfreezing weather if you're going to be away for more than a few hours.

 

It may for the OP since her installer originally suggested this. However, our Envision blower is powered through one of our aux breakers as you have described. Did you install the switch that you described in your unit? I haven't looked at our unit closely enough to see exactly how the blower power is wired from in the heat pack box.

Is a 30amp breaker enough? I believe we have 10kw strips (and blower) on one 60amp breaker, and an additional 5kW strip on a 30amp breaker.

I may not have mentioned (I didn't re-read entire thread) that the thermostat may show the aux light even though the aux breaker is off. The light indicates that the thermostat is calling for aux, not that aux is actually on despite the aux breaker being off.

 

On Envision packaged units, check out DIP switch SW2-5. This can lock out electric aux heat, but not emergency heat.

 

I am going with

The pack that the problem is a control issue.

My favorite is the White=Rodgers 1F95-1277. In the installers menu it allows one to chose the spread between stages based on temperature. I rarely have any issues with the W-R produces.

To allow for growth and learning I am working with Honeywell Pro stats on a boiler recontrol. I will keep you posted.

 

Just some general thoughts... weighing in.

I have a similar system, 5ton geo, 4,000 square foot home.
I have a FocusPro TH6220D thermostat as well.
And $600/month heating bills (about 160kw per day).

I went through several heating and cooling contractors that didn't know what they were doing. I am learning to interview people over the phone to see what they know before they come over. Did you find anyone else knowledgeable in your area to help? (your installer sounds like my installer - just guessing)

Anyway, yes, I've learned to keep it at 67degrees and not touch it up or down. And I'm going to try adjusting the CPH as well (mine is set at 3 and that's what it does 3) as I hear it takes less electric to keep it running than to start up and stop several times per hour. (I was at the electric meter today watching the geo start to try and prove that - the jury is still out for me)

I am not sure if my aux is running or not - still trying to get to the bottom of that one and yes I'd like to yank the aux out completely.

As a side note, my FocusPro takes about 8 wires to be properly hooked up, and for some reason, mine is only hooked up with about 4... so we are correcting that in the next week and wiring it correctly. Cross your fingers.
Thanks for listening to me share your pain...