Discussion in 'Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by kevgibson, Jan 5, 2015.
here is purge cart
Just do a google search or Geo flush cart. The flush cart hoses get hooked up to those 3-way values. Your need the pump on the flush cart so you can push the water through the loop field at a rate of at least 2 gpm (if I remember correctly). Anything less then that will not move all the air bubbles along the inside of the piping so the air bubbles will not get purged. Air is a great insulator, not something you want in your loops.
the minimum flushing rate is 2 feet per second through every pipe section. Flushing should be done both ways through the loop.
Thanks. One of the things holding up a solution at the moment is I don't know the specs of the fittings requied to tap into the pump housing. Both I and my HVACC guy have called Climate Master, who says they'll get back to us but never do!!
can you post a pic of the pump fitting? Or brand of flow pump?
One could remove the plug and drag it to the hardware store for a match.
I will bet the fittings needed will be 1" NPT.
I flushed a loop yesterday. I used 1" MPT X barb fittings to 1" braided PVC hose. Warmed the PVC with a heat gun to ease it over the barb and then double clamped with worm gear clamps. The nice thing about the hose I use is one can see the fluid and air flow out of the system. I pump into and out of a 5 gal. bucket. I have marked 1 gal increments on the inside of the bucket so I know how much fluid I add to the system. A good thing to know on a rescue job.
My current pump is a recycled, 2 HP, swimming pool pump. 2" in and 2" out bushed down to 1" on the delivery side to fit my hoses.
I could mount all this stuff to a hand cart, but then I would have to hire someone to move it. As separate pieces it is easy to move around by teenager.
I forgot about this thread running or I would have taken a picture.
if your flow center looks like this, you can order the fittings here http://www.geo-flo.com/?Fittings/Flo-Link_O-ring_Fittings
Thanks..Feel like I might be approaching a point where I could do it myself. theres a pic of my pump higher in the thread and it looks exactly like the one above on the right except when I take the covers off the front ports I see a plastic fitting not a brass one. I'll take a much closer look at it today and start chasing down the parts on Monday.
Oh you might need the composite fittings. They make a 90 that then attaches to a banjo fitting. Go with Dewayne's link.
Kev, you can call me if you get stuck. Number is on my website.
So as you can see my pump system is as you suspected. I took one cap off so you can see its a plastic or composite fitting. The markings on the unit say "Climate Master' but is this unit actually manufactured by "Geo-Flo"? So front fittings, a pump, 5gal bucket and some hose and I have a self made purge-cart. It also looks like I need a tool to turn the valve and do you need to loose those star-screws before you turn it.
I'll contact Geo-Flo in the morning and see what they have...perhaps a manual. I'm presumming its flushed in 2 parts , that the valve closes the main loop and lets you flush the unit...can this be done with the pumps stationary or do they need to be running. Then Id presume you close the unit loop and open the ground loop and flush this ..in both directions.
DO NOT remove the screws! If you look at the valve you can see three tabs in the shape of a TEE. These tabs show you where the OPEN ports of the valve are. As shown, the ports are open Top to Bottom and Back. The front of the valve is CLOSED (no tab). Water can only flow from the loop, through the unit and back to the loop. There is no opening to the right for water to flow. To isolate the loop from the unit the bottom of the TEE faces down. To isolate the unit from the loop the TEE faces up. After you have flushed the loop, in BOTH directions, you must pressurize it. With the pump running, turn the RETURN side valve back to the position in the pic then turn the SUPPLY side valve back and then you can shut off the pump.
A 3/8" socket and extension will turn the valves. Do not run the pumps while purging.
That is just a plastic plug. Sometimes they stick a little, but it must be removed before you hook up the hose.
some flow centers do indeed have plastic fittings
Yes popular with Climatemaster
OK I have geo-flo sending the fittings and some 1" hose. So next I'm after a pump...previously there was mention of 2 hP and 2gpm any favorite, well proven any to avoid ?
If you find a used 2HP swimming pool pump, I hear they work well.
something like this would do the job. 2 gpm has nothing to do with what you need to accomplish. http://www.amazon.com/HP-Spa-Pump-Sta-Rite-Cascades/dp/B005ZKN9EO
That may have been A problem but apparently not THE problem!!
Well took a while for the parts to arrive and I got a pump. I flushed the ground line in both direction and bled of air from valves in attic. I closed the return side first and then the return. It appears i pumped about 5 or 6 gallons into the ground line. On the last run there was no air int the attic lines and the bucket wasn't dropping level. I felt pretty confident the line was full and had some pressure.
So I started the system. Pumps ran and i could see the valve that controls the water flow open. It ran for about 5 mins. Lifted the air from 63F intake to 72F output and failed with a code 13 AGAIN!
I ran it one more time with a thermometer in the return waterand could detect no real temperature difference from the intake. Code 13 failure again.
Feeling pretty disappointed!!
Separate names with a comma.