First time caller... I'm replacing a very old Bard 5 ton with a Miami HP 5 ton...current system is regulated to 8 gpm on a 12 gpm well pump. But the MiampHP system is nominally rated at 15 gpm, though I'm told that that will be more like 10-11 gpm here due to groundwater temps (65). The "extra" gpm of the current system goes to house water. I don't have the well log (haven't yet gotten it from the county), so I don't know what the well is rated at. Assuming it has enough flow, I could get a 15 gpm pump and regulate the HP at 12 to provide 3 to the house, or leave the 12 gpm pump and regulate at 10 with 2 for the house. The latter is less $ up-front but might starve the HP so seems short-sighted. The former could be problematic if the well isn't rated high enough and will $ for a new pump. So, while studying about this, I stumbled upon a thread in another forum that suggested that the most-efficient design for this case is instead of splitting the water supply to house water and HP, run all water through the HP and tee to the house between the HP and the shutoff solenoid so that the 12 gpm well pump would provide both. The thread I mentioned mentioned plumbing components I have no experience with (cycle stop valve, modulating pressure sustain valve, booster pump) and the diagram showed a pressure tank (with the cycle stop valve) both before the HP and one (without cycle stop valve) on the house water supply after the HP...a little overwhelming to me. I've no idea which of these are absolutely necessary. Does anyone have experience with running house water through your HP to reduce well pump flow requirements?