Ok on the governor. Sounds like this unit is electronic given its protection systems. I'll check the service rated transfer switch instructions. I know there is a way of manually switching from utility to generator power, but I don't know if this really duplicates an outage. If not, I will install a separate shutoff for utility power (before the transfer switch.) I'll have a flashlight handy, just in case. Wow, that's great that you don't need the warmers in MI. Guess I didn't need them either. Oh well. Maybe the battery will last a bit longer... I'll use the synthetic oil as well. You're welcome. Thanks for all of your info too!
Installed this morning. Took roughly 1/2 hour for each of our units (after subtracting talk time.) I was going to ask someone to explain in layman's terms how a soft-start unit works, but saw this article: How Does a Soft Starter Work? | eHow.com Feel free to correct or clarify this.
geome, Thank you for posting your info. Do the compressors sound differently (hearing less noise, while standing near them) as they start? Regards, Masoud
It's hard to tell. When standing next to the units, I do hear a click when the units start. I don't know if this is a new sound from the IntelliStart or not. Aside from the click, I would say that the actual compressor start up is a little quieter. It could also be that with the compressors being a little quieter, and a very slight delay with the compressors starting, I might be hearing the same click more easily (when I am in the basement with the units.) We previously had a slight light flicker whenever the units engaged. Not annoying, but noticeable. I haven't noticed any light flicker since the IntelliStart units were installed. Without the light flicker, and the compressors being a little quieter, I don't notice the units turning on as much (since yesterday!) Have you noticed any differences with your soft-start (if it has been installed yet)?
geome, Thank you for answering my question. No soft starts here, yet. Joe will bring and install the device, on his way to the turkeys. Regards, Masoud
Not really. Some homes still have dimming lights, but we know about MI aged grids. Amp draw is always cut significantly. J
My billed cost for the IntelliStart units came in right at $200 each. Labor was billed at one hour for installing both units. We still haven't noticed light flicker since the IntelliStart units were installed. I'm a happy camper.
I was originally thinking of interrupting only the electric heat. If I wanted to interrupt (temporarily) the entire 2-ton (second floor) unit, could I interrupt the power going to the second floor thermostat by interrupting the C or the R wire? Is there a downside to interrupting the geothermal system by shutting off power to the thermostat (while leaving all circuit breakers on)? If this is ok to do, which wire would be better to interrupt - the C or the R? As a side note, I don't know if disabling the first floor unit (using the same method) would work since the loop pumps are powered through the first floor unit. I don't know if disabling power to the first floor thermostat would still allow the pumps to come on when there is a call for heating or cooling on the second floor.
As a side note, I don't know if disabling the first floor unit (using the same method) would work since the loop pumps are powered through the first floor unit. I don't know if disabling power to the first floor thermostat would still allow the pumps to come on when there is a call for heating or cooling on the second floor. ________________________________________________________________________ Okay first if you interupt R (which may be the only one that would have impact as C is often optional), the back-up batteries will be discharging until power is restored. If outage is long enough batteries could fail and you may lose programmed set-up. No other real downside than the relay or whatever you use to interupt would be subject to failure (more things to break). If you interupt the downstairs stat it shouldn't interupt flow center. j
Thanks Joe. Great point on the battery backup in the thermostat. I was trying to think of a way to interrupt one thermostat wire that would disengage the corresponding geothermal unit. The R and C wires are all that I came up with on my own. The transfer switch has two built in relays that can interrupt a 24VAC signal for load shedding purposes (and four other contactors for other devices.) I'm not sure how I want to utilize the two 24VAC relays yet. The load should be fine nearly, if not, all of the time. Wiring the relays are just a fail-safe. Any load that is interrupted will be re-enabled once the overall frequency of the generator is within spec (and stays in spec.) Ideas are welcome. One of the other four contactors will be used for the water heater.