I am a do it yourself kind of person and do a lot of research when I make a decision. I recently built my own home and decided to use Energy Efficiency as the decision making key to all of my building decisions. My home is a Ranch with a 2300 sqft. main and 2300 sqft. basement. Every single lighting fixture has an LED bulb or is an LED can light (spent a fortune on lights). I have a tankless water heater for backup, and my dryer, and cook top are gas. My oven is electric but I use it approximately one time/week. The windows are manufactured by Solaris and are rated very high. All windows are casement of fixed picture. Most windows are fixed picture to eliminate the extra seals and potential leak possibility of opening windows. All doors are the best insulated I could find locally. All windows and doors have been sealed with foam and window Tape. The ceiling is insulated R50 blown in fiberglass except for the great room ceiling which as 6" of foam sprayed to the roof deck, the walls are insulated with 3-3.5 inches of polyurethane foam (say R21ish). The Basement Walls are Superior Walls (They come R5) with 3-4 inches of polyurethane foam added (Total R26ish). The basement floor is insulated with 2" of spray foam under the slab. The front of my home has also has the added insulation of B&B siding with foam for rigidity. I have a 4 ton Waterfurnace Envision Forced Air System installed in the home. It uses a 1/2HP ECM blower motor and I believe it has a 8KW heating element for AUX. It has the desuperheater option and it is currently working. There is a 6' deep trench that is 600' long. I believe there are 3 loops in the trench. My Geo Installer gave me a sheet that says it should cost me aprox $1100 to head and cool for a year. SOUNDS AMAZING. My Electric usage so far for the 2 months in my new home have been 3567KWh ($440.98) in December and 4141Hwh ($546.19) in January. Besides the cost of running the system being way more than $1100/year my home is not staying warm enough. I have it set to 69 and it feels cold. I have other thermostats ranging from 65-67 but the waterfurnace branded stat says 69 consistently. My system runs 24/7 in Y1 and most of the time in Y2. The AUX seems to be running a lot at night and is almost always on in the AM. I realize this is normal and that you would not size a system for the extremist of temps. I know AUX is supposed to come on in those cases. It has been cold the past 2 nights and the system has been running full out Y2 with Aux and my house is not maintaining set point on the thermostat. This AM it was 64 (62 on other stats). It feels cold. I have space heaters in the house to keep my newborn warm enough. I was under the impression GEO was a more even, more consistent, and more efficient heat. I have never paid this much to heat my home…even when I was using propane. I have also never been uncomfortable and unable to heat my house. I can burn wood in my fireplace and get my main room to low 70 without trouble. The only problem is the rest of my house gets cold. Once the fire goes out the temp in the home equalizes and the system runs harder for the next day just to get things back up. Sorry long winded but I wanted to get some background. What should I be checking? I feel very little air from registers and the air definitely doesn’t feel warm like my propane heat used to. Even when unit is heating in AUX the duct work from the system doesn’t feel extremely warm. Is warmer but not what I would expect. I am afraid I am undersized and not making enough BTU… The installer came over and covered all of my return air duct work in the basement to improve air flow. He states that the air temp is in the mid 90’s in Y2 so there is nothing wrong with the loop or the geo unit. He is telling me that I have the option to install a 1HP motor and that will help. How do I know if this is the truth? How do I know if he wants to avoid changing out the system?