Living and Learning with Geo

Mark, the Geo-Gypsies are always welcome.

Caleffi has some really nice manifolds, that option over $350 + plumbing changes. I would probably have to up-size the pipes from 3/4" to 1".

I am trying contact the folks that supplied the pex and manifolds, to see if they have some shut offs that will attach to their manifolds.

Thanks, Chris

 

Chris:

I can get you a price on manifolds. The 1/2" ball valves I mentioned above could be added with a trip to home desperate.

The sizing of the supply and return piping to and from the radiant heat emitters is dictated buy the amount of BTUH the serviced space requires.

Mark

 

"The 1/2" ball valves I mentioned above could be added with a trip to home desperate."
I understand, I only want to cut the pex once, they are already close to the floor.

"The sizing of the supply and return piping to and from the radiant heat emitters is dictated buy the amount of BTUH the serviced space requires."
A "wet head" like yourself knows those things. The way it is I can keep the basement and garage at the temps I want. The 3/4" tee on the manifold was connected to the 3/4" hole in the top of the tank using 3/4" copper pipe, makes sense to lay-man like me.

Chris

 

Tech was out this morning, took out refrigerent, changed low pressure switch and weighted back in the refrigerent, seems to be working fine. Hopefully it goes back to using less KWH's.

Radiant supply guy came up with 4 shut offs with compression fittings, shipping them out to me.

Chris

 

I put in the 4 shut-offs, purged each loop, seems to have gotten rid of air. I will have to wait to see if any air works its way up to the top of the piping after I let it sit for a few days.

On another note, This summer I ran water in the drip loops, first time for 3 1/2 hrs, second time a week later for 3 hrs. Noticed a 1.5*- 2* drop in EWT.

Chris

 

So you like when it rains.

Mark

 

Not connected to any rain water collecting, maybe someday. I just don't worry too much if it doesn't rain.

Chris

 

Had to have the installer out today, low pressure light on board. Lost refrigerent again.

He used his sniffer thing but couldn't find any leaks. Took out what was left (3 lbs), weighted back in the 6 lbs.

He found a cap loose on a shrader valve, praying that was it.

Wishing I never got this Brand!

Chris

 

If you're loosing 3 lbs of refrigerant in just over three months you have a significant leak.

Bergy

 

Chris:

Just off a 12 hour day installing a Bosch to replace an old ** unit. Remind mw what you have.

I have had bad air to refrigerant coils from most manufactures. I have had bad TXVs that act like refrigerant leaks. I have had bad service port valves leaking. I even have had co-ax leaks into the loops.

Let me know.

Mark

 

Hydro-Temp 4-ton combination unit.

Since installer didn't find any leaks with the sniffer tool, it may be a co-ax, unit has 1 for DHW and 1 for radiant.

I have always had problems with air in the radiant side, could never seem to purge all the air out. I added the shut offs to each loop. Then I swapped out the Taco 007 for a Grundfos Alpha on the large basement zone. Then had to pull the alpha because I didn't put the check valve in. Weather was mild this past weekend so I purged the basement again, sounds like I got all the air out this time.

The installer said to keep an eye on the pressure in the radiant loops, it's at 18 psi now.

Chris

 

I think the unit is leaking refrigerant still. The loop delta is down to 2.6*, low LAT 81* 14* delta.

Air has returned to the radiant loop. Installer thinks the refrigerant is leaking into the water coil and the "air" I hear in the loop is refrigerant.

The radiant water coil is behind the 2 compressors and between the DHW coil and the source loop heat exchanger.
I can't imagine how difficult it's going to be to replace it! And expensive! No warranty left.

Chris

 

I had a refrigerant leak to the loops in CT a few years back. So it can happen. Found the air was refrigerant with a sniffer.

Mark

 

Thanks Mark,
Heat pump is 4 yrs old, paid too much back then and now it may cost thousands too fix.
Do I fix or replace? that's what I have to decide when installer gives me an estimate.

We built the house ourselves, thought we could afford it with the low utility costs of having geo.

We have been billed over $1200 for repairs so far to recharge twice.

If we replace the Hydro-temp with a WF Synergy unit there are lots of changes that have to be made to plumbing and controls, existing HP can do DHW and radiant. Might need to get a HPWH for DHW and have the water side of the synergy do the radiant.

I know I can drive myself crazy thinking of all these "what if's".

Chris

 

Chris:

Call the guys at Bell Pump and ask what they get for a leak detector. I would confirm that is what is going on before choosing a plan of action.

With your radiant system might I suggest going water to water if you need new equipment.

If it EVER stops snowing here, I could head your way and lend a hand.

Mark

 

Confirmed, the radiant water coil is leaking refrigerant into the water. It's actually a flat plate type exchanger and the source exchanger is also a flat plate type. The DHW has a coaxial type.

The other problem that was found was the filter dryer was all corroded like it was in an outdoor unit 15 yrs old.

The installer is going to try to get Hydro-temp to warranty the problem but I guess at the end of 2009 there was not the energy star requirement of 10 year warranty as there is now.

Chris

 

Sorry about the bad news, but you now know what is going on with the system.

Good luck with the warranty.

Mark

 

HT said no. 1 year only.

Installer is offering to sell parts and materials at his cost and charge his normal hourly rate. I was hoping he would eat a bit more of the costs, but I guess not everyone is like Joe @AMI Contracting.

There have been 4 trips to my house since 9/13 each costing hundreds. When all is said and done I am looking at a few thousand.

Chris

 

Are you sure you want to fix this unit?

With minor piping a new unit might be more cost effective.

Mark

 

I really don't want to but I don't think I have much choice. I can't afford the fix so new is out of the question.

I think even just the cost of a new unit would be much more then the repair. As the consumer I don't know what the unit cost, my system was installed in new construction so my invoice included a lot.

I am trying to stay positive, it's hard.

In 2009 I was working 3 days a week at my family business and shooting nails, cutting wood, building the house 4 days a week.

I really wish I had taken the time to come on the forum and learn then what I have learn here since 2011. I don't know how to thank all you contributors here.

Chris