I am doing a DIY system install

Discussion in 'General Discussions' started by SolarPower, Nov 25, 2018.

  1. nc73

    nc73 Member Forum Leader

    ?? You won't see earth temp once the unit runs. It could go to 30 entering water temperature during the winter. Yes it will generate heat at 30. You could just get the cheapest water heater you can find or buy used. All it's gonna do is hold water. You can leave the elements as-is, just don't wire it up.
     
  2. SolarPower

    SolarPower Member

    Thanks for the reply.

    My equipment all shipped and should be here Monday.


    I met with a guy that has a 13-ton excavator 3’ bucket. Weather permitting, he is coming tomorrow to dig two trenches 280’ long 3’ wide 6’ deep I am going to keep the trenches about 25' apart.

    I am going to dig between our house and the horse fence about 25’. I run the pipe and back fill those very big trenches.


    When a talked to a local Geo installer he told me to go with 3’ trench instead 2’ he has installed a lot system in my area. He was a very nice guy and answered all my questions. This was supper helpfully.

    He is going to give me a quote for taking my old equipment out and installing my Geo unit to my ductwork.

    I will do the wiring (I was an electronic tech in the Navy) and connection to the manifold.


    A person from this forum that also did a DIY 3 ton Climate master 2 speed compressor. He lived just down the road from me. He was a supper nice guy and invited me over to see his install. He shared tips on the install.
    This was very nice of him.



    For monitoring

    A few years ago, I built a passive solar greenhouse and I have monitoring in it,

    It has three zones free so I can run wires put sensors in for EWT, LWT and put a contractor to let me know when it is running.

    I can the monitor the system Wi-Fi this system has a web page with the zones and you can set alarms on the zones if needed.

    I have a The Energy detective TED 5000 for monitoring power ( I use this for solar production)usage I will probably install another current clamp on the Geo unit.

    This will be plenty of info to see how things are running.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2018
  3. SolarPower

    SolarPower Member

    I have one trench dug 270' long 3' wide 6' deep it looks good. Both trenches meet at my fence then I have one 25' trench to my house. What it the best way to run the 4 loops in that last 25' trench to house. All the loops will go under the foundation to the manifold.

    I thought I would dig the 25’ between the house and fence 4’ wide 5-6’ deep. I would put the 4 supply lines on the bottom one foot apart. The put 2’ dirt in and put some insulation in the trench. I have some 1 ½ blue board extruding polystyrene I could put 3” in there.
    Then put the return lines in the trench. Then cover with dirt.

    How does that sound?



    20181202_172943.jpg inCollage_20181202_182857280.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2018
  4. docjenser

    docjenser Well-Known Member Industry Professional Forum Leader

    Not sure if the polystyrene insulation does anything....
     
  5. SolarPower

    SolarPower Member

    So the rest of it sounds good but just skip the XPS insulation?
     
  6. nc73

    nc73 Member Forum Leader

    Man you are all about overkill :) Not a bad thing. Insulation wouldn't do a damn thing. You could've gone with 2' trenches and your performance would be the same as 3'.
     
  7. SolarPower

    SolarPower Member

    Ok thanks for the replies.

    I will skip insulation.

    Just trying to do the best job I can. My system is a little light on the heating side 3 Ton but that will be good in the summer where we need longer run times for the humidity control.

    I want the 3 ton to be able to run as good as it can for heating. I was thinking I would only use the hot water feature during the summer to not take away heat in the winter.
     
  8. ChrisJ

    ChrisJ Active Member Forum Leader

    I would still use the DSH (desuperheater) in winter until, if and when the heat pump is not keeping up.

    I use the communicating tstat on my Heat Controller(Climatemaster) 3 ton 2 stage. I can see EWT, LWT, LAT, DSH temp.

    In our trenches, the installer put pvc pipes with holes drilled in it, creating a drip loop. They are about 18" above the HDPE loop pipes. I can connect the garden hose to it and let the water run for a few hours to add moisture to the soil around the loops.
     
  9. SolarPower

    SolarPower Member

    ChrisJ I really like both those ideas. Can you turn off the DSH with the communicating tsta?

    What size PVC pipe does he use? Do you know about what size holes he drills and spacing?
    Drill a hole maybe every foot?

    It would be cool to catch the rain water on that side of the house and have that pipe into that PVC pipe.
     
  10. ChrisJ

    ChrisJ Active Member Forum Leader

    You can turn off the DSH at the control board (DMX2) with a dip switch.

    I have 5 200' trenches, he made the fill pipe and manifold from 3/4" pvc, then used 1/2" running in the trenches. 1/8" holes every 2 ft for half the trench then 1/4" holes every 2 ft the rest of the way. My trenches ran a little uphill so I don't think a rainwater barrel would work.

    I am on Eco Renovator a little, I read some of your posts about this project. Good luck
     
  11. SolarPower

    SolarPower Member

    Thanks for the info I really like this idea.

    What your user name on Eco Renovator? I am on there lots. To many projects.

    I would catch rain water in IBC’s that way there is pressure putting the water in. I do this with my passive solar greenhouse.
     
  12. ChrisJ

    ChrisJ Active Member Forum Leader

    I think I am the same as here ChrisJ or ChrisJ RI.

    At the time(9 years ago) the hardware cost me $275, no extra labor.
     

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  13. SolarPower

    SolarPower Member

    Do you see a difference in the numbers when you water the loop field?
     
  14. ChrisJ

    ChrisJ Active Member Forum Leader

    A little, I flooded it late summer last year, it lowered my EWT a few degrees. I think it helped last winter having that moisture down there.

    I am heating dominated up here in New England, your cooling dominated. Soil is very different also.

    I would wet down your soil as you back fill. The drip loop is just a little insurance against drought.
     
  15. SolarPower

    SolarPower Member

    I picked my geothermal unit and 2,400 HDPE pipe. I am running the pipe out 300’ then back staking it to the side of the trench 2' off the bottom staking it every 10’.

    What is the best way to run the pipe?

    Just get in the trench and roll it out?

    Roll it out mark it at 300’ drop in trench then start rolling it back?
     
  16. nc73

    nc73 Member Forum Leader

    Good luck wrestling those pipes if it's nice and cold out.
     
  17. ChrisJ

    ChrisJ Active Member Forum Leader

    That's about it, How are you staking it to the sides?
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2018
  18. nc73

    nc73 Member Forum Leader

    they sell large U staples that can be used to hold the pipe down. From what I remember they were like 5 inch x 2 inch.
     
  19. SolarPower

    SolarPower Member

    I have the pipe in the sun hopefully heating up. It is up to 40 degrees here. I have large U shape stakes to hold the pipe to the side of the trench.

    I dug under the foundation and up into the crawl space started a 6 am. All hand digging in very hard clay. That was a pain in the butt it is done. later I will mount the manifold and run my first two loops.

    I think I will pressure test them before back filling. I don’t always have good luck so that is probably best to do that.

    The second trench is all done but 75' I hope they finish today.
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2018
  20. nc73

    nc73 Member Forum Leader

    The leak will be at the manifold if any, so unless it's buried or fusion joins, test after everything is connected and back filled.
     

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