I purchased a climate master digital 30 two years ago. When first installed the unit has a freon leak and bad circuit board. Had those repaired. Began having pressure loss on field lines. And now have another dx2 board go bad. Thinking of giving up and going back to regular heat pump. Not asking for help. Just griping
You have my sympathy, my installer left and went away. I ve had a code 13 for 3 months. Got one guy to drive 4 hrs from Albuquerque an couldn't fix it ...$900 just in travel time. Climate Master tell me they will have a tech call back and never do. Just spent $300 flushing the ground line and it didn't fix it.
I'm also in the questioning geo decision camp. I think in the right application geo is great. In our situation, we spent a significant amount of time and money on the building envelope. Due to that our heating and cooling load is very low. (I started a thread on our system being oversized). If I had to do it over again I probably would have put our money into solar. We had our house blower door tested a few weeks ago. We found a couple of notable leaks and fixed. After that we retested and our entire envelope including basement tested at 1.12 ACH50. When the temps here get to 40 degrees or above our units barely even run.
As always, design, correct sizing and application is key. Everyone here also emphasizes that the key is to have a company/installer who drop everything in case your system needs any work. No one of my customers shall ever turn elsewhere for help, or describe those malfunctions for the period of time.
Its great that your customers are in good hands Doc. I'm sure they are and will be well served. After careful monitoring this winter I've come to the conclusion that 4 tons would have taken care of our home without auxillery, 3 tons would have taken care of all but a handful of the coldest nights. We had humidity problems last year and I'm guessing it was due to short run cycles. I'm hoping the changes will help this summer.
Well, it is inconceivable to me how customers have those kind of complains as outlined above for a sustained period of time. Nor should anyone have to deal with the manufacturers. That is the dealer's problem. It is not the fault of the geothermal system, nor is it the fault of your system that it is oversized by a factor of 2. So it is an issue of the lack of customer service and installer know how, and not that geo would not be a great application in all cases described above.
I agree completely Doc. We have a dealer that is great so far on support, just missed the load size estimate by a mile. Now that the heating side seems to be working well we have agreed to hold off on any changes until summer to see if the humidity issue returns.
Modine Geofinity Model GFV048. I have found by reading manuals that the units have a humidity control option. The biggest problem I am running into is that while my dealer is willing to help, I feel like I'm the one who is figuring things out because he just doesn't know much about these units. I asked about built in humidity options on the units last year and was told they didn't have any. In reading recently I found the following in the orb controller manual. DEHUMID RH – The Dehumidification set-point will allow the fan speed to decrease during a cooling call if a DHM signal from the thermostat is present. Lower airflow while cooling removes more moisture from the air. Dehumidification Range: • 60: Fan Low –3% : Fan High -5% • 70: Fan Low –4% : Fan High -6% • 80: Fan Low –5% : Fan High -7% • 90: Fan Low –6% : Fan High -8% I again asked our dealer last week about the option along with what type of thermostat he recommended for the DH call to the unit since my tstats don't have a humidity option? Also do I need to change all thermostats or can I just change to one with the DH option? I was then told I don't need a different tstat. The humidity option was controlled by the unit only. I know this is not correct. The units need a DHM call from a thermostat to signal the fan speed to slow down. Several other questions have gone much the same way with the dealer saying I'm asking questions most homeowners don't ask, but he'll find out for me. Super nice guy but I just don't think he really knows much about the finer details of these units.
At least he is nice! Kidding aside, you should be able to change setting for cooling mode only with the dip setting, although I do not know you units in particular.
JK several years ago I put in a highee end air source heat pump in my old house with natural gas backup. It had the dip setting where the first x minutes of runtime it ran at reduced fan speed. If it has a variable speed blower then there probably has the option as Doc says. Maybe you just need to shut one unit off this summer?
Lol. Thanks for the laugh Doc. The DHM option is available through the touchscreen on the units. I have a feeling we will be fine this summer with the changes. My only frustration at this point is the time spent getting there.
Scootscoot. Climatemaster did have a run of boards that had to be replaced or reflashed. Leaks in refrigerant are uncommon. Loopfields can lose pressure discenably with just a few cups lost through fittings sometimes hard to see but easily bumped back up. How have your heating bills been? Did your contractor charge you for repairs?
