I have a climatemaster tranquility 20 and am having issues with the cooling systems on it. it has been 90+ here so I haven't yet checked to see if heating is working but my assumption would be it is not. The thermostat has the correct voltage to all terminals, as well as the boards in the cabinet itself. The problem is that the compressor will not turn on when the cooling system is triggered. I have the dip switch to no time delay. I have checked voltage into the contactor and out of the contactor going to the compressor. both test within range. When I press the manual switch on the contactor the compressor turns on and runs, and there is power to the terminals on the compressor. The issue is I do not know what that manual switch bypasses that would cause this to happen. I am assuming that the most likely problem would be the capacitor but would like a second opinion on the matter before I go and order parts.
Verify that you have 24v going to the contactor (on sides) during a call for cooling. Assuming voltage is present, your contactor most likely needs to be replaced. Fact that compressor turns when contactor is manually depressed indicates the capacitor is okay. However, you should not have 240v. on load side of contactor or to compressor (unless button is pushed).
That was actually my original thought and I had a friend (Who I assumed knew what he was doing) tell me that probably wasn't the problem. Now, the issue i am running into is that the part on there, is a siemens 42cf35ag 3p contactor. (Its a 40a 240v 3 post contactor) This part is discontinued, I am military so usually when I am looking for a sutible substitution for something I pop a part number into webflis/fedlog and BAM out pops a part that I can use. not so much the case here. I have a tech coming out (Probably not for another week so, yay for the summer right?) but if I can get it fixed before he comes out that would be awesome. http://www.grainger.com/product/com...L5_AS01%3F%24smthumb%24&s_pp=false&sst=subset The siemens is the one that is in there now (discontinued) and the square D is the closest I can find to the replacement part. Not the actual maintenance part I am not afraid of, it is just switching terminals on the old to new. I have done a lot of electrical work on aircraft, but I just want to make sure I am doing eveything right here on this. a 2 week wait for a tech to come see it is insane, it is almost 90 degrees in my house.
Kansas, I have a TZ22 unit and want to say I had a similar problem back when I initially got the system, Believe it or not, the installer told me to go flip the breakers off for 30 seconds or so and flip them back on. Much like a computer, a fresh reboot cleared up my problem and it worked correctly after. I want to say this happened after a brief power outage due to a storm and killing the power for a little while cleared up my problems. I dont know your specific circumstance but it is definitely worth a try. Every time we get a power flicker now, I will go kill power for a minute or so and bring it back online. Ever since doing this, i have not had another issue.
While contractors can appear to be manual operated or look OK to the naked eye, when you disassemble, you usually have one side that is typically burnt out. Also, did you check the capacitance on the capacitor? Be sure to remove all leads and let drain down before using your multi-meter.
